Friday, 30 October 2015

Elizabeth I ladies in waiting

Ladies in waiting 

Katherine Champernowne Ashley 


England Under The Tudors: Katherine 'Kat' Ashley (?1500-1565), viewed 30.10.15, (digital image), www.luminarium.org, portrait of Katherine Ashley

Kat Ashley, originally from Devon, was the governess and 'foster mother' of Elizabeth I, who in later life became the chief gentlewomen of her privy chamber. There is not much information on Kats early years, before she entered Elizabeths life, but it is said she was from Devon and although there is some information on her family the Champernowne's, other historians say she was related to Thomas Cromwell. Many letter and visits were recorded between Kat and Thomas, until he brought her to court, where she became friends with Anne Boleyn. 

http://www.elizabethfiles.com/finding-kat-ashley-by-karen-harper/3460. 

Kat took over from Elizabeths original governess, who went to take care of the new Prince. Kat was in Elizabeths life from very early on and became her sole carer when Anne Boleyn was beheaded, and was a loyal and loving mother figure for Princess Elizabeth. Although she didn't have any children she treated Elizabeth as her own, teaching her everything from history to languages, horse riding to mathematics, she showed her love and affection throughout their years together. When Kat married, later on in life, her husband who she loved dearly, also treated Elizabeth with the affection of his own child, this relationship between husband and wife taught Elizabeth the meaning of a truthful and strong marriage. 

Unfortunately, during Queen Mary I's reign, Kat was forbidden to see Elizabeth, in fear they were working together to take over the thrown, this was only resolved once Elizabeth became Queen when she requested Kat to become her chief gentlewoman, along with many others, Kat was her favourite. Later in life, it was recorded that Elizabeth stated 'Anne Boleyn gave me life, but Kat Ashley gave me love.'   

http://thetudorenthusiast.weebly.com/the-life-and-death-of-kat-ashley

Blanch Parry 

BBC - Your Paintings - Blanche Parry (1508–, v1590), viewed 30.10.15, (digital image), www.bbc.co.uk

Blanch Parry was the second gentlewoman to Elizabeth I, and was the keeper of jewels. This job meant Blanch wold have been very trustworthy, discreet, meticulous, elegant and respected. As well as Kat Ashley, Blanch looked after Elizabeth from a young age; her aunt Lady Troy, was the mistress for both Elizabeth and her brother Edward, and she was close with Lord Burghley and William Cecil, with these close connections to the family, it seems this was her 'way in' to her involvement in the care of Elizabeth. http://www.blancheparry.co.uk/summary.shtml


After the death of Kat Ashley, Blanch became the chief carer of Elizabeth and her privy chamber, and some of her other main duties were; fashion stylist of sorts; she would sort the clothes of Elizabeth and help her get dressed, she would coordinate furs, grooming and formal occasion clothing, she would be in charge of her jewels, pets and money, she would organise music, parties and entertainment, she would be in control of the gifts and presents given to Elizabeth, and even some of the bills given to the Queen. 

Blanch was so close to the Queen, she would be around her all the time, guarding her chamber or by her side, she would sleep in the same room as Elizabeth, even when she had late night 'visits' from her gentleman friends. Blanch was payed well and was given money, clothes, food and accommodation for own servants. http://www.squidoo.com/blanche-parry

Bess of Hardwick

 Bess of Hardwick, 1550's en.wikipedia.org, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image)

Elizabeth Talbot, countess of Shrewsbury (1527-1608) also known as Bess of Hardwick. Through o series of marriages, Bess became very wealthy and high up in society, she married four men, each wealthier than the next, she became the richest woman in England after the Queen. Being so rich and powerful, sorting after wealthy men for marriage, makes her an old fashioned gold digger. She was well educated, shrewd, ambitious, scheming and very powerful. 

Catherine Carey 


or Muelen, Steven van der Meulen Prints, www.magnoliabox.com, Catherine Carey, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image)

Catherine Carey was the chief lady of the bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth I, and was also her first cousin. She was the favourite amongst her cousins, and in later life was found out to be the daughter of henry VIII, this was secret and was never discussed between Elizabeth and Catherine. She had a life long bond with Elizabeth which ended when she died, Elizabeth was distraught over this and buried her in Westminster abbey. Elizabeth loved her cousin Catherine, but was good at controlling people and would play on her emotions with Robert Dudley, Catherine was very sensitive. 

Lettice Knollys

Lettuce Knollys - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image), Lettice Knollys the countess of Leicester

http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/virginqueen/sienna_guillory.shtml

Lettuce Knollys was the grandniece of Anne Boleyn making her the cousin of Elizabeth, she was very close to Elizabeth and they had been through a lot together. She was a close friend to her as well as family and became one of her ladies in waiting. Lettice was considered 'the great beauty of the court' which would have angered Elizabeth due to her vanity and want for beauty, especially after her small pox. She constantly received belittlement from Elizabeth due to her jealousy and this only got worse the more they were together. Later in life Lettice and Robert Dudley married in secret and had a child, Elizabeth found out and banished them both. 

Mary Fitton


Montford Park Players | Mountain Xpress, www.mountain.com, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image), Mary Fitton 

Mary Litton became a gentlewoman and maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth, recommended by her father. She is considered to be the 'dark lady' in Shakespeare's sonnet, due to her dark life including many affairs and mental breakdowns. Suffering form physical and mental symptoms that Elizabeth called 'suffocation of the mother' probably hysteria, she had to quit court. 

http://www.britannica.com/biography/Mary-Fitton

Anne Vavasour

BBC - Your Paintings - Ann Vavasour (1560–1650), viewed 01.11.15, (digital image) Anne Vavasour, 1605

Anne Vavasour 1562-1650, was a gentlewoman of the bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth I in 1580, along with her sister Frances (1568-1606). After a few months Anne became one of the six maids of honour to the Queen. She soon became pregnant with an illegitimate son, which she hid for the entire 9 months. Once the due date came, she gave birth and was sent to the tower the same day for punishment. The father of the baby boy tried to flee the country in fear of being punished of having a child out of wedlock, he refused to marry her and was banished from the court for 2 years. Anne stayed strong and raised her son on her own. 

Katherine Swynford 
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/469641067363733154/, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image), Katherine Swynford
Elizabeth Brydges
Giles Brydges, 3rd Baron Chandos - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaSigned and dated portrait of Elizabeth Brydges, aged 14, daughter of the 3rd Baron Chandos and maid of honour to Elizabeth I, 1589, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image)

Anne Russell
Theodore Russell (London 1614-1689) | Portrait of a lady ...www.christies.com256 × 340Search by imagePortrait of a lady, traditionally identified as Anne Russell, later Lady Stapleton (d.1722), bust-length, in a blue dress with pearls

                                               Elizabeth Throckmorton 
period makeups | sixteenth-century Europe | Elizabeth Raleigh ..., the makeup gallery.com, viewed 01.11.15, (digital image), Bess Throckmorton, Elizabeth 

Tuesday, 27 October 2015

Books have arrived!


Elizabethan inspired makeup 5

Elizabethan inspired makeup 5 


This face chart is my least favourite, I have used a white over the eyes to represent white eye lashes, for this I will have to use a white mascara. I dislike this look because the face shape of the chart doesn't suit the style go makeup I have completed, to avoid this happening in my assessment I will have to mould the makeup to the person I am making up; measuring the face shape and working with the model. I have tried to keep the colours subtle and traditional to the Elizabethan era, but I used more pink in this face chart to keep it contemporary.

Elizabethan inspired makeup 4

Elizabethan inspired makeup 4 


For this look I have added gold to keep it contemporary and to represent the look of wealth and royalty. I want to keep some gold in my design to promote this symbol. I found it hard to blend the colours, especially the red, as for the base I used super colour white. Although I powdered the face after I applied the base, it was difficult to blend other powders on top, next time I will use aqua colour or illamasqua white base, I don't whether the paper has made it difficult to blend or the super colour, I will practice this on real skin.    

Elizabethan inspired face chart 3

Elizabeth inspired makeup 3


I wanted to keep this look angular, I blended the red to point towards the lips  and the eyes to sweep outwards. I wanted to keep the lips in the shape of a heart to represent the Elizabethan symbols of purity and loyalty to England. I added gold to the eyes on the lid, the colours strong, but I also used gold on the forehead, this didn't work as well, next time I will blend the colour using a brush, on this face chart I used a sponge which smudged the colour and made it blend with the white base causing the colour to fade and turn grey.  

Modern Elizabethan face chart 2

Elizabethan Inspired makeup 2


For this face chart I used red lipstick from Kryolan and enlarged the lips slightly, this is too keep the look contemporary. I also blended out the eye brows to keep to the Elizabethan theme. I admire the blending of the cheeks and the colour is a subtle red like the eyes, this look is one of my best, I may continue with this original idea and build on the colours to produce a strong finish, I want to add some gold into the design, I will keep practicing with my face charts to find the perfect contemporary Elizabethan design. 

Modern Elizabethan face chart 1

Elizabethan inspired makeup 


For this face chart I found using Aqua colour for the base made the texture of the face chart much easier to work with; it created a smooth base and made the application of the powders easier. I then used aqua colour on the eyes, this also worked well and the colour was strong. I used super colour gold on the eyes and lips, I like the gold as I have used it to represent wealth and royalty, something Elizabeth I wanted to show through her fashion and makeup. I have covered the eyebrows with aqua colour white, using this product worked best as the eyebrows were blocked out best.  

Researching False Eyelashes

Researching False Eyelashes 

http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/cosplay-eyelashes.html, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

I have chosen to look at these different eye lashes, as I want to incorporate this into my final design. To make my design relate to 'The housewives,' and Lettice Knollys, I want the makeup to look extravagant and bold, this will show the different personalities involved and he makeup practices used throughout the lives of these women. These lashes are an extreme look. I want to use a bright colour, to reflect the personality traits and use big lashes to show the big make used by each person. 

https://www.pinterest.com/fakeeyelashes/pink-fake-eyelashes, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

I like the look these lashes give the face and eyes, they are an extreme lash set, I want to find similar lashes for my final design to give the impression of big colourful eyes. 

http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-orange-eyelashes.html, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

I like the use of colour in these lashes and the amount of volume it gives the eyes. Orange is a colour I want to consider using, as it clashes with the pink and will make a statement. 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/350928995934265243/, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

I like the amount of volume in these lashes. They give the eye a new angle and make a statement with bold colours that clash. I have been thinking of using orange and pink in my final design to clash the colours, this is a good example of the colours I want to use and will give me an idea of the amount of colour to use. 

https://www.eyelashesdirect.co.uk/feather-pink-and-orange-false-lashes.html, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

https://www.eyelashesdirect.co.uk/feather-pink-and-orange-false-lashes.html, viewed 27.10.15, (digital image)

I like this style of lashes; they give the eye a larger and bold look without making the droop and feel closed due to heaviness. 

Monday, 26 October 2015

Eyes and lips

Eyes and lips 




Shaping the eyes: After looking at these examples of eye shapes, I decided my models, Amy's eye shape was small eyes, I then used soft light colours to make the eyes look bigger and brighter. I used darker shades in the crease of her eyes and lighter colours on the lip and under the brow, this enlarged her eye. 


Applying the eye shadow to the back of my hand created a less intense colour, this was helpful as I wanted to create a subtle look to Amy's eyes. I used a lot of translucent powder under the eyes to ensure if any of the eye shadow powder dropped, it would easily be brushed away without leaving a mark on the foundation. Another way to avoid this would be to place a tissue underneath the eye to collect any dropped powder. Whilst creating the look on Amy, it was important to constantly check in the mirror to ensure the eyes were even as this type of makeup applied is corrective, and any unevenness would be noticeable and would change the shape of the part of the face I was making up. 



When making up the eye brows, it is important to powder the face fully first to make sure the eye brows won't collect any of the unwanted powder and change the colour. Brush the eye brows before hand to create a neat finish and keep the eyebrows looking natural, once brushed the eyebrows take on their natural shape are easier to colour. With men, brush a beard as well. It is also important to mascara the eyes last to ensure no powder is left on the eye lashes. 


Amy has very big and plump lips, so any lip colour would have suited her, I used a dark pink to draw the attention in and to compliment the colour of the eye shadow I used. 

For this design I have used:

  • Illamasqua satin primer
  • Kryolan foundation:light
  • Mac eye shadow palette: cool neutral 
  • kryolan pink and red mix lipstick palette
  • Bobbie brown mascara 
  • Mac brown eyeshadow for eye brows: cool neutral   
Health and safety:

Before I started the application of makeup,I ensured all my brushes were clean and there was no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application I ensured I didn't cross contaminate the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' I assessed the clients skin and came to the conclusion she had normal skin with no contraindications. 

Day of the dead

Day of the dead 

History

The Day of the dead is a holiday celebrated during November in central and northern Mexico; it is a day of honouring their deceased loved ones. The people who take part in this celebration believe on October 31, the gates of heaven open, and deceased children are allowed to visit their loved ones and families for 24 hours. On November 2, the adults are allowed to leave heaven to join their loved ones too. 

The families of the deceased  make large offerings of food and drink, this is very expensive but they will continue to do it because they believe that happy spirits will bring protection, good luck and wisdom to their families. During the day of November 2, the families take more offerings and sugar skulls to  the graves of their loved ones. They spend time at the graves; cleaning them, listening to music often played by the village band, have colourful gatherings and reminisce, this tradition keeps the village people close. 

Sugar Skulls

Sugar Skulls are made from 50 year old moulds for a competition at the Feria de Alfinique in Metope, Mexico. They represent a departed soul and have the name of the particular soul on the forehead of the skull, they are placed by the graveyard and the food offerings to honour the departed. 

This is my take on a sugar skull, I have recreated the makeup of a sugar skull on model Amy. I found it very hard to do the small and precise details of my design with the brushes I have. I have found I need to use much smaller brushes with fine tips to get the look I wanted, I have ordered some new ones to create these more precise details. Using super colour proved to be a mistake; the colour smudges and doesn't set very well even when fully powdered. Although I was happy overall with my finished design, next time I will use only aqua colour, so the colours are less like to run into each other or get smudged when using complimentary colours next to each other. The most difficult part to my design was making the small flower petals around the eyes. I used a black eye liner pencil, because I used super colour for the blue areas, applying the black over the top made the colours smudge. Next time I will use a liquid eye liner or use the full shape of a larger brush and create a block colour; printing the black onto the face instead of drawing the colour on in a wiping motion. 
  

I started my design by painting the face in white using my super colour mixed with Illamasqua white base, these two mixed together create a good smooth, and solid base ready to build upon. I then coloured in the eyes with blue super colour and an outline of orange using the aqua colour. The texture of aqua colour is more like a soft paste, mixed with water it turns into a product much like pace paint, this was ideal for the design I wanted to achieve because it enabled my application to be smooth and easy.  
I found the teeth very hard to do, I couldn't figure out the position of the teeth; where they should begin and end. One I had smudged the black for the jaw it then helped to measure where the teeth should begin, time was running out at this point so I would have worked on them a bit more, for this I need to work on my time management and make sure I have all parts of design down before I think about the detail.  


For this design I have used:

  • Illamasqua satin primer  
  • Kryolan white supercolour base 
  • blue aqua colour kryolan for eyes 
  • black aqua colour kryolan eyes and nose and smudged areas 
  • blue aqua colour kryolan lips and patterns 
  • orange aqua colour kryolan for patterns 
Health and safety:
Before I started the application of makeup,I ensured all my brushes were clean and there was no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application I ensured I didn't cross contaminate the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' I assessed the clients skin and came to the conclusion she had normal skin with no contraindications. 

Day of the dead image research
These images have inspired me to use strong and bold colours for my sugar skill, I admire the amount of detail in both images and the use of colour and props used, not only on the face but all parts of the body visible in the images.  

http://girlgloss.com/day-of-the-dead-makeup-looks, http://lindsayhancock.com/category/makeup-2/,  26.10.15, (digital image) 

http://girlgloss.com/day-of-the-dead-makeup-looks/, https://www.facebook.com/JuliaKuzmenkoPhotography//blog/2012/11/dia-de-los-muertos-the-making-of-the-sugar-skull-image/, viewed 26.10.15, (digital image)

researching contemporary lip looks

Researching contemporary lip looks


red & gold lips - Lips Photo (7052727) - Fanpop, viewed 26.10.15, (digital image) www.fanpop.com
I want to incorporate the colour colour gold into my contemporary makeup design; the Elizabethan era makeup was all about making yourself look like royalty, higher up in class and showing your power through your looks. Gold is a very royal colour and represents power and wealth.   
Pink Gold: Pink Gold Sparkle Lipstick, viewed 26.10.15, (digital image), vi.sualise.com, gold and pink lips

As pink stands out as a glamorous colour, I an thinking of including this in my final design practice, this will link well with the personalities of Lettice and the Housewives a they portray a person who would have loved glamour , gloss and the colour pink. 

Gold Lips on Pinterest | Rainbow Lips, Lip Art and Green Lips, www.pinterst.com, viewed 16.10.15, (digital image)

I admire the mix of using a strong dark colour with gold, the colours blend well together and stand out. As I want to use gold in my look I will experiment with different colours and tones on my face charts to come up with the best mix of colours that are influenced by historical 16th century makeups. 

Gold lips | Kiss IT! | Pinterest | Gold Lips, Mac Lips and Makeup ..., viewed 26.10.15, (digital image), www.pinterest.com
I admire this lip colour, I want to incorporate gold into my final design as it has a lot of meaning and symbolism. As my design is a contemporary version of an Elizabethan look, gold is the perfect colour to relate me design to a historical one; wealth, power, royalty and status. I will experiment with different products to find out which gold works best in my look and on my skin. 

Igreja Metodista em Engenhoca | Um Povo de Coração Aquecido, viewed 26.10.15, (digital image), www.
I like this look; using the centre part of the lip to create a love heart, this represents the Elizabethan style of makeup, and also the hair. Elizabeth I's hair has been in the shape of  love heart to symbol her love for her country and her virginity, I want to incorporate this symbol int my contemporary design.  

Friday, 23 October 2015

David Lachapelle; inspirational images

David Lachapelle 

Flaunt 


David LaChapelle- Flaunt | Spiral E, triangleheart.wordpress.com, viewed 23.10.15 (digital image) David LaChapelle

In my opinion, David LaChapelle's 'Flaunt' collection symbolises the difference between people of power and those without it. This image is a good representation of that, it shows the people of power at the top, in this case a priest or pope, and the servants or slaves looking vulnerable, hurt and naked, at the bottom. All the riches and jewels, although some destroyed, is underneath the man of power and clearly shows they belong to him. The selection of images from David LaChapelle inspired me to think out symbolism and the different ways Elizabeth I symbolised her wealth, status and purity. I will think about the different ways I can include symbolic meanings into my work and final design practices.      

David Lachapelle,I'm a Human Inbox: David LaChapelle, www.huaminabox.blogspot.com, viewed 23.10.15, (digital image)

This is another image by David LaChapelle from a different collection. I admire this image also because the use of bright colours, clothes and objects in the photo, it reminds me the effect Queen Elizabeth I wanted to give with her fashion, she would wear very extravagant and colourful designs, some patterned the extreme with different symbols. This image also has different symbolism embedded in it; the sitter the main attraction, very shiny skin with a powerful look on his face, he also shows power and status through what he hols in his hands,the skull to symbolise death and the pharos to symbolise his power over the people. This image has a contemporary feel to it as there isa television screen in place behind the model and the amount of clothes he is wearing and his stance also indicates a modern look. His clothing, although inspired by historical times, is very contemporary.    

Tim Walker inspirational images

Tim walker 

Tim Walker Helena Bonham Carter | Vision and Design, , Helena Bonham Carter, London, Vanity fair, March 2011, timwalkerphotography.com, viewed 23.10.15, (digital image)

This image relates to my Elizabethan style, it is a contemporary photograph including the crown and septum of a Queen, this stood out to me because the makeup and fashion is inspirational for me, I want to make a more personalised image of this to put forward for one of my ideas for my final design. 

Tim Walker Helena Bonham Carter | Vision and Design, Kristen McMenamy/Alexander McQueen,  Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, British Vogue, Northumberland UK, September, December 2013, (digital image)

This image, also photographed by Tim Walker  shows another example of contemporary design inspired by the Elizabethan era. Her expression shows the serenity of the Queen and her fashion also promotes the many pearls she wore. She is also wearing a modern day ruff, and crown, I like that the artist has kept the colours to a minimal, using only black and white, colours worn by the Queen; black was expensive and proved her royalty and wealth. Although a more masculine line of clothing, it relate to Queen Elizabeth I and I would like to take this inspiration into my final design ideas. 


Tim Walker for LOVE Magazine! | FashionLoud, Karen Elson, Oxford, Love Magazine, Autumn/Winter 2013, viewed 23.10.15 (digital image)

I chose this image because it promotes wealth and power. Queen Elizabeth would have had her precious objects with her in her portraits and would be surrounded with everything that symbolised her wealth power and loyalty to England. To me this image can relate to that because a lion is a huge dangerous animal that, lying next to it, shows power and control. A lion is also  symbol of loyalty, this image promotes that hugely by the animal so relaxed and calm.  
Les Beehive – Photographer Tim Walker, Lily Cole, Northumberland, Italian Vogue 2004, viewed 23.10.15, (digital image)

I chose this image because of the pearls wrapped around the neck of Lily Cole, this looks like a classic look that could be symbolising her innocence. Pearls symbolise the meaning of innocence, purity and virginity. This reminds me of Queen Elizabeths portraits, she would cover herself in things that symbolise her party and chastity, like pearls. Her hair in this photograph also looks like a contemporary version of the hair of Elizabeth, it is a bright shade of red, very curly, almost frizzy and very big and round. 

Review of Elizabethans blog

Review of my blog 



This is the review of my 'newElizabethans' blog, I showed my blog to a classmate who then read through my ideas and reviewed were I was on the grading list. I think she graded me quite high and I have to disagree as I think I need to use a wider range of resources; books, film clips and text from articles etc. I also need to practice my makeup and hair designs outside of the classroom. I have booked a studio for next week so this is now possible. I will plan the hair and makeup session well to make sure I use all the time available responsibly. 

Doing this task of reviewing each others work made me anxious, I am not very confident in speaking about my work to other people, but after doing it I was pleased to be able to discuss ideas with another person doing the same sorts of thing as me. It was very helpful as I was able to go though all the topics I was unsure about and have them explained to me, also I was able to help another student in correcting their blogs. I was pleased with her comments as she was honest and told me where I could improve, but also I could see reading though my work helped her to understand her own blog a bit better and know whee to improve. I know now I need to make sure my Harvard referencing is always up to date, and to go into more detail when blogging about my work, I normally point out the key things, I need to elaborate, which I sometimes find quite hard to do. I think I always need to practice my work outside the classroom, in my spare time and with different people, this will help me to get better at what I do and get a higher grad for my blogging practice. 

Analogous face chart

Analogous Face Chart 


This is my analogous face chart, I used colours pink and red as they are next to each other on the colour wheel. I tried to make to lips a different shape, I widened them and made them more plump. I liked the way the eye shadow and creams bless and point towards the nose to line with the contour. I used creams to make the eye shadow and the eye liner, this was helpful because it blended well. I used a black pen for the mascara but onto of creams, the pen doesn't show up as much, I liked this effect because the shadow and cream is still visible behind the eye lashes. The eye brows I used the same pen as the mascara, I wanted to create very raw and thick eye brows, for dramatic effect. I think I accomplished that using the pen.

It was difficult to get both sides of the face symmetrical, after practicing it was easier this time than the first of my face charts. Practice makes perfect!