Use of colour, Face chart

Use of colour face chart

Assessing the skin

• Combination skin
• Olive skin tone, medium

Products used:

• foundation brush 
• kabuki brush 
• small eye shadow blending brush 
• angled lip brush
• eye brow and eye lash wand 
• medium sized brush for contour 
• large blending brush for forehead contour 
• Kryolan foundation and concealer
• Kryolan eye shadow palette 
• Kryolan super colour palette 

I am very proud of this face chart and practical, the use of colours worked well with the shade of foundation I used. My other face charts have been with a white base, but as this was an all colour face chart I wanted to use a 'normal' skin tone and build on top of that. I am really happy with the way this makeup experimentation came out, Natalie was a good model which made it easier for me to apply the makeup, she was still and her skin is a nice texture to work on. I struggle most with applying lip products, this is because I want the lips to look symmetrical and plump, this is hard to do, as the lips follow their own shape and are normally not very symmetrical. It is also hard to follow the shape of the lips with a steady hand. This is something I want to practice on and become good at. 

                        

                       

                       

Additional face chart, Analogous colours

Additional Analogous colours face chart 

This is an additional analogous face chart I did, I enjoyed making the face charts and then executing them on a real person. I looked at the colour wheel and chose colours that where next to each other, I chose purple and red because they are striking and bold colours, as I wanted to create a face chart with a bold look. 

Additional face chart, Complimentary colours

Additional face chart, monochrome colours

Evaluation of timed assessment, in the role of the designer

Evaluation 

Designer: Rebecca Southerden
Artist: Partner  



This was my finished face chart of how I wanted my design to look. I used many bright pink and red colours as well as orange to create a statement piece of art. My inspiration for this design came from the personalities of Lettice, a lady in waiting and cousin to Elizabeth I, and of the 'real housewives' television show. Both personalities are strong, bright and glamorous, I wanted to portray this though my makeup design. 

Matida and I practiced this design until it was perfect to the face chart design and until we were both happy. I timed the makeup practices we undertook to make sure she would finish within the time we had for the assessment, and I was very pleased with the results of our practices. The makeup choices I made were quite difficult to complete and I was impressed the Matida was able to put my ideas onto my face. I was happy with the application of the design and she did well to do each part of the makeup in stages, this enabled her to complete on time and remember the process we talked through. Towards the end of the assessment, I could see Matida was feeling the pressure and she was disappointed with the end result of the lips, she first did a good job to get the shape of my lips right, but after applying more product, it smudged onto the white areas. She managed to fix the problem before the time ran out but she would have liked to have more time to perfect it. 

Peer review:
Matilda worked hard to execute my design as close as possible to the face chart I made, and to my ideas we had discussed. She took time out of her routine to practice on me, so she and I felt confident during the assessment. I was happy with the commitment she had towards this assessment, as she would always make herself available to practice and go over new additions to my design. This made me feel confident, and encouraged me work as equally hard on her design for me. 

Although my design took close to the time we had, Matida didn't need to rush or feel as though time was gaining on her. Toward the end, she felt as though she has made a mistake on the lip design, she was able to recover from this and improve on the lips, but she still felt as if that part of the design had let her down. Although this happened, I loved the finish look and it looked the same as when we had practiced, I think the time element of the assessment built the pressure and made her feel more tense at the end. 

Health and safety: 
Matida reviewed my skin type and came to the conclusion that I had dry skin on my nose but normal skin overall on my cheeks, forehead and nose, this helped her to know how much moisturiser to put on my skin and what cleanser and toner to use. She also reviewed whether my skin had any contraindications, and came to the conclusion that no contractions needed to be put in place. All brushes used in the application were cleaned, using brush cleaner and were given a shampoo before hand, this ensured the makeup would be applied cleanly with no cross contamination. 

 

Consultation notes

Consultation notes

Consultation notes are to be written for every client that I have worked on, this is to help me to understand any contraindications that the client may have before makeup is applied to the skin. This will help me during the application so I know of any allergies or medication and prevent any problems occurring or discomfort made. 

  

Name: Holly Britnell 

Age: 19

Hair type: natural hair, very long, heavy but thin hair, light brown 

Skin type: dry skin 

Skin tone: light to very light skin tone

Eye colour and shape: brown eyes, deep set eyes 

Allergies and medication: no allergies known or discovered, no medication 

Contraindication: nothing to note, dry skin, use a sensitive cleanser, toner and moisturiser, ensure skin is well moisturised before application.   

Cleansing and Toning

Cleansing and Toning 

• Ensure to use a cleanser to clean the skin before applying any makeup to the face, this will remove any dirt or makeup on the skin from before hand, all previous make must be removed, this is so the new makeup applied is fresh and all my ow work, this will also reduce the possibility of clogs pours and spots.
• Once the skin is cleansed, use a toner to remove the cleanser for the face and freshen the skin. If cleanser gets in the air, use a toner to remove it
• Moisturise the skin once the cleansing and toning is complete, this will put moisture back into the skin and provide a nice base ready for new makeup to be applied.  
• The fact should be clean and read for makeup, shown in the pictures below. 

Complimentary Colours Make-up three brush challenge

Complimentary Colours Make-up

For this design I used; 

• Cleanser, toner and moisturiser, 
• Illamasqua satin primer
• Illamasqua white base, 
• Illamasqua translucent powder,
• Kryolan mix of blue eye shadows 
• Kryolan mix of orange eye shadows 
• Kryolan super colour orange 
• Kryolan Blue super colour for eye lashes and eyebrows   

For this design I was challenged to only use three brushes, I chose to use the Kabuki brush, a medium eye shadow brush and an angled lip brush. I used the Kabuki brush to apply and blend the white base product, I also used the kabuki brush to apply the blue and orange powder as extreme contour on the cheeks and nose. I then used the smaller brush to apply the eye shadow and blend it into the eye brows. I used the small angled brush on the lips and for the finishing touches, e.g. the corners of the eyes with super colour orange and underneath the eyes with blue. 

I found this task difficult at first because I would normally use a range of brushes, all different shapes and sizes to get the best look out of what I have planned. But once I got into it and applied the product to the face I found that I chose the perfect brushes for the design. I needed a large brush to blend the colours and apply the white base, using this brush made the application easy because there was a larger surface area to work with and it blended the colour as soon as it was put on the skin. The smaller brush used for the eye liner was helpful because I needed to get into the corners of the eyes and also underneath, this brush also helped with the detail at the sides of the nose, I was able to create a smooth and neat line for each side. The angled brush was good for the lips because I was able to turn it to fit the shape of the lips, this brush was also good for he eye brows as it was small enough to catch and colour each hair. 

Health and safety:

• Ensure the eyes are closed when applying the product, 
• Review the skin before application, decide whether any contra actions are needed to take place,
• Cleans, tone and moisturise the skin before application
• Be aware whether the client id wearing contact lenses when applying powder to the face and eyes especially 

Photo shoot collaboration

Photo shoot collaboration

This shoot included a: 
Makeup artist: Rebecca Southerden
Designer
Photographer
Model

For this photo shoot the designer wanted me to create two looks based on the same colours, I used a mix of light and dark blues for both looks. The inspiration for these came from a mood board showed to me on a number of occasions so I could practice and get ready for the final shoot. I found both designs interesting and fun to do as the colours mixed nicely and I liked the overall look. The model was a perfect choice, she was still thought the whole application, confident in front of the camera and had sharp cheek bones and a very defined jaw line. I found it good practice to do a design on a new person with a different skin type and tone, she was very pale and the colour match was easy to make as most of the colours in my foundation palette are yellow and pale. The model had deep set eyes so I knew to lighten the colours at the top and underneath to open up the eye and bring it forward, I was happy with the finished result. The designer talked me through her ideas throughout the application and instructed me on what she wanted, she was also happy with the results. 

The photo shoot was made up of two designs, one, a subtle look, minimal foundation and concealer, power and a light contour, two shades of blue covering the eye lid, with a soft nude colour on the lips with  shine ver the top. The second look was a slightly different mood, the makeup spread around her eyes in different shades of blue ranging from light to dark blue, up to the eyebrows. The brows were also coloured blue with a light brush of white over them, this gave the shape more definition and separated the overall colours of blue. The lips where a nude pink with a gloss over the top. I was happy to be a part if this photo shoot, it was fun to work with new people, discussing and sharing different ideas, and talking about future collaborations.   

What I used:
Cleanser, toner and moisturiser 
Kryolan mix of blue 
Kryolan foundation palette 
Kryolan Concealer palette 
Kryolan lipstick palette 
Kryolan white and pink super colour 

My Partners Final Design Practice Improved

Matilda's Final Design Practice: Improved Design 

In our own time my partner and I practiced her final makeup design; she had made subtle changes to the positioning and amount of colour to the lower part of her face, and removed any eye shadow from the eyes to make the design fit better with the Elizabethan concept. I found most of the design easy to do, but I struggled with the symmetry of the black lines towards the bottom of her face. Looking in the mirror whilst doing this helped me a lot because it shows exactly where I went wrong. To make this easier for me, my partner and I discussed making a stencil for the lines to ensure the finished design is perfect and the symmetry is on point. The design took less then an hour to complete, this means there is more time for me to perfect thew look and ensure everything it as she wants it. I will spend the remaining time going over any lines and any white of the face which has become patchy or needs retouching. I am confident that I will be able to complete this design to her standards. 

For this design I have used

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Kryolan white super colour and Illamasqua white base mix for the base; face, ears and neck, foundation brush and kabuki brush
• Illamasqua translucent powder over the whole face, powder puff 
• Illamasqua white eye shadow on the lid and underneath the eye, small brush and blending brush  
• Illamasqua metallic palette silver for eye liner, underneath the eye, very thin brush 
• Kryolan white super colour to block out eye brows and eye lashes, eye brow brush and mascara brush 
• Kryolan black super colour to line the black section, thin brush 
• Illamasqua black powder on lower face and neck, blending brush and blending sponge    

Health and safety:

Before I started the application of makeup,I ensured all my brushes were clean and there was no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application I ensured I didn't cross contaminate the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' I assessed the clients skin and came to the conclusion she had normal skin with no contraindications.   

My Final Design, remade

My Final Design 

I redesigned my final look to add definition and to show more of my skills practice, also I thought my previous design reminded me of a David Bowie styled makeup. I changed the sharp edges of the red colours on the cheeks by blending the colours, I also added orange on the eye lashes and the cheeks. I used the Illamasqua white base instead of aqua colour to save time and to ensure a smooth texture to the skin, this created a lighter finish and a more subtle overall look to the skin. I added more gold to the lips to blend into red; I used gold to portray wealth and status, I also used a red palette to keep to the Elizabethan theme. Instead of blocking out the eye brows I wanted to make them a statement piece, the inspiration for this came from the makeup style of the Housewives of Orange Country television show mixed with the personality traits of Lettice, the lady in waiting and cousin of Elizabeth I.

I am pleased with how my final design looks on my face chart and Matida and I have practiced this look on my face to compare and match the two. I am pleased with the amount of practice that me and Matida have put into this, as we want to make sure that both partners are confident with the application and the finished look. 

My Original Final Makeup Design, Practice

My Final Makeup Design 

This is my original makeup design for my final assessment, I wanted to keep the look Elizabethan by using a white base and using pink. The pink in my design also illustrates the bright, girlie and confident personality mixture of Lettice and the Housewives. I also wanted to use gold to symbolise royalty, wealth and status, I have used this under the eyes and on the eye brows. I want to make the eye brows a statement piece as the housewives use many products to create the perfect brow. I will change this look slightly; I like the colours I have chosen, but I will use a larger mix of shades to separate the block colour and spread it out across the face, I will also blend the colours out to fade into the white, and choose a brighter colour of pink and add more gold to the lips. 

For this design I want my partner to use:

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Illamasqua white base for the foundation, kabuki brush
• Illamasqua translucent powder, powder puff 
• Kaolin pink, orange and purple blend of colours for the cheeks, eye shadow brush 
• Illamasqua white powder for eye lid, blending eye shadow brush 
• Kiss Cosmetics Lady in red lipstick for the lips, thin brush
• Illamasqua gold for sides of lips, eye brows and under the eyes, thin brush, eyebrow brush   

Health and safety:

Before the application of makeup, it is important to ensure all the brushes are clean and there is no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application ensure no cross contamination with the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' Assessed the clients skin and conclude whether actions need to be taken or if there are any contraindications. 

My three final design face charts

My Final Designs 

I have made my profession to my final face chart clear, as I have developed my ideas I have made subtle changes each time to perfect the look I wanted. My inspiration came from the personality of Lettice Knollys and the Real Housewives of Orange County; I wanted to use strong and bold colours to give this impression. I chose pink as I see this colour to be a glamorous and 'girly' colour; this represented the personality traits of all the lady's because they were glamorous and wealthy women but also strong and independent. 

I chose to use false eye lashes because the housewives and Lettice would wear extravagant and strong makeup to change their appearance, I think eye lashes are good to use as they show a strong makeup style and change the appearance of the eye shape, the eye lashes I chose were big and fanned out with multiple colours. This made my eyes look longer and overall much bigger and glam. I kept the use of gold in each face chart, as I knew gold was a strong colour to use to represent wealth and power, I used glitter gold as well as a smooth textured to make the colour stand out amongst the other range of colours. Red was also a colour I knew I wanted to incorporate because I wanted to keep to the Elizabethan theme but also this colour was strong and bright.   

My partners design practice

Makeup; My partners design

For this design I have used

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Kryolan white super colour and Illamasqua white base mix for the base; face, ears and neck, foundation brush and kabuki brush
• Illamasqua translucent powder over the whole face, powder puff 
• Illamasqua white eye shadow on the lid and underneath the eye, small brush and blending brush  
• Illamasqua metallic palette silver for eye liner, underneath the eye, very thin brush 
• Kryolan white super colour to block out eye brows and eye lashes, eye brow brush and mascara brush 
• Kryolan black super colour to line the black section and lips, thin brush 
• Illamasqua black powder on lower face and neck, blending brush and blending sponge    

Before 

 After 

My partner was particularly ill during this makeup session so we will practice this look again before the assessment when she is feeling more up to it. 

Her look was a dark design inspired by her chosen lady in waiting, I found it easy do the initial base to the design as I have practiced a white base a lot for the Elizabethan project, I also think blocking out the eye brows is a good idea for her design, as she has very bushy eye brows and adding white to them in a 'wild' way is a good feature. I found blocking out the eye lashes was difficult because they are so dark, to improve on this I will have to invest in a white mascara and pencil eye liner to prevent the smudging. I used super colour on the brows and eye lashes, as this product stays greasy, it was hard to set.   

For the lower half of her face, she wanted black to look like a smudge/contour, I used super colour black, suggested by my partner, this worked well for smudging and spending the colour down her face, next time I will use more powder to build on the colour and I will keep looking in the mirror to ensure the lines are symmetrical and defined.