Additional face chart, Analogous colours

Additional Analogous colours face chart 

This is an additional analogous face chart I did, I enjoyed making the face charts and then executing them on a real person. I looked at the colour wheel and chose colours that where next to each other, I chose purple and red because they are striking and bold colours, as I wanted to create a face chart with a bold look. 

Additional face chart, Complimentary colours

Additional face chart, monochrome colours

Evaluation of timed assessment, in the role of the designer

Evaluation 

Designer: Rebecca Southerden
Artist: Partner  



This was my finished face chart of how I wanted my design to look. I used many bright pink and red colours as well as orange to create a statement piece of art. My inspiration for this design came from the personalities of Lettice, a lady in waiting and cousin to Elizabeth I, and of the 'real housewives' television show. Both personalities are strong, bright and glamorous, I wanted to portray this though my makeup design. 

Matida and I practiced this design until it was perfect to the face chart design and until we were both happy. I timed the makeup practices we undertook to make sure she would finish within the time we had for the assessment, and I was very pleased with the results of our practices. The makeup choices I made were quite difficult to complete and I was impressed the Matida was able to put my ideas onto my face. I was happy with the application of the design and she did well to do each part of the makeup in stages, this enabled her to complete on time and remember the process we talked through. Towards the end of the assessment, I could see Matida was feeling the pressure and she was disappointed with the end result of the lips, she first did a good job to get the shape of my lips right, but after applying more product, it smudged onto the white areas. She managed to fix the problem before the time ran out but she would have liked to have more time to perfect it. 

Peer review:
Matilda worked hard to execute my design as close as possible to the face chart I made, and to my ideas we had discussed. She took time out of her routine to practice on me, so she and I felt confident during the assessment. I was happy with the commitment she had towards this assessment, as she would always make herself available to practice and go over new additions to my design. This made me feel confident, and encouraged me work as equally hard on her design for me. 

Although my design took close to the time we had, Matida didn't need to rush or feel as though time was gaining on her. Toward the end, she felt as though she has made a mistake on the lip design, she was able to recover from this and improve on the lips, but she still felt as if that part of the design had let her down. Although this happened, I loved the finish look and it looked the same as when we had practiced, I think the time element of the assessment built the pressure and made her feel more tense at the end. 

Health and safety: 
Matida reviewed my skin type and came to the conclusion that I had dry skin on my nose but normal skin overall on my cheeks, forehead and nose, this helped her to know how much moisturiser to put on my skin and what cleanser and toner to use. She also reviewed whether my skin had any contraindications, and came to the conclusion that no contractions needed to be put in place. All brushes used in the application were cleaned, using brush cleaner and were given a shampoo before hand, this ensured the makeup would be applied cleanly with no cross contamination. 

 

Evaluation of timed assessment, in the role of the artist

Evaluation 

Artist: Partner
Designer: Rebecca Southerden

For this design I used:

• Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
• Satin primer, Illamasqua 
• White base mixed with super colour. Kryolan and Illamasqua
• black super colour, Kryolan
• black powder, Illamasqua 
• Silver metallic palette, Illamasqua 
• white powder, Illamasqua 
• translucent powder, Illamasqua 
• foundation brush, Kabuki brush, blending sponge, small angled brush, eyebrow and eye lash wand     

At the beginning of this project I was excited to find out that I would be working on the Elizabethans. Finding out more about the hair makeup ideals practiced and created by Queen Elizabeth I was interesting, and opened my eyes to be more creative with makeup while working with my partner. I liked researching into the different makeups used on the people of this era, and the contemporary interpretations of this in films and television shows.

  

I found my partner's makeup design practice helped me a lot during this assessment, as I was confident in the end application. My partner and I took time out of lessons to go over any problems we had with the design, and to add any improvements, I enjoyed practicing with my partner as she is easy and fun to work with. 

Because her design is so striking, black and white contrast, I wanted to get the separation lines between the colours perfect, this took a lot of time as I found it difficult to make each side perfectly symmetrical. After discussion and practice, we decided a stencil would be best to make the lines as symmetrical as possible. I was pleased with the end result of the edges of the design; around the hair line and the neck line, as I didn't get the makeup in the hair and the lines were straight. I found it easy to work with my partner as she encouraged me while practicing and made me feel confident in executing her design. 

Peer review from Matida:

On Monday my partner created my make-up design which I overall felt went quite well. I feel that we spent enough time practicing my design in and out of practical sessions, and my design developed as we practiced. When we first practiced my design, I was happy with the outcome my partner had created but it became obvious that creating the clean, precise and straight lines in my monochrome makeup look was difficult. Because of the black and white colours in my look, the line that separated these two colors from my lip, had to be very clean and precise which was difficult to create free hand so any mistake made would show up. 

To my partners best efforts, she could not create the perfect line I wanted free hand, so we both agreed that a stencil of the shape I wanted would be much more practical and save a lot of time. In response to this I created a stencil for my partner and explained how to use it, she practiced this before the assessment in our practical session and it was very successful. I feel that my partner listened to my ideas well and created the base and shape of my design well, I have always had confidence that my partner could create my design the way I wanted. Although, when we first practiced she followed my design correctly creating my desired base and eyes, but she did not create the lip shape exactly how I wanted. In response to this I explained to her again the shape I wanted and showed her so that she understood better what I meant. Because of situations like that I felt that our communication was very good because we always made sure that we understood each other properly. 

Complimentary Colours Make-up three brush challenge

Complimentary Colours Make-up

For this design I used; 

• Cleanser, toner and moisturiser, 
• Illamasqua satin primer
• Illamasqua white base, 
• Illamasqua translucent powder,
• Kryolan mix of blue eye shadows 
• Kryolan mix of orange eye shadows 
• Kryolan super colour orange 
• Kryolan Blue super colour for eye lashes and eyebrows   

For this design I was challenged to only use three brushes, I chose to use the Kabuki brush, a medium eye shadow brush and an angled lip brush. I used the Kabuki brush to apply and blend the white base product, I also used the kabuki brush to apply the blue and orange powder as extreme contour on the cheeks and nose. I then used the smaller brush to apply the eye shadow and blend it into the eye brows. I used the small angled brush on the lips and for the finishing touches, e.g. the corners of the eyes with super colour orange and underneath the eyes with blue. 

I found this task difficult at first because I would normally use a range of brushes, all different shapes and sizes to get the best look out of what I have planned. But once I got into it and applied the product to the face I found that I chose the perfect brushes for the design. I needed a large brush to blend the colours and apply the white base, using this brush made the application easy because there was a larger surface area to work with and it blended the colour as soon as it was put on the skin. The smaller brush used for the eye liner was helpful because I needed to get into the corners of the eyes and also underneath, this brush also helped with the detail at the sides of the nose, I was able to create a smooth and neat line for each side. The angled brush was good for the lips because I was able to turn it to fit the shape of the lips, this brush was also good for he eye brows as it was small enough to catch and colour each hair. 

Health and safety:

• Ensure the eyes are closed when applying the product, 
• Review the skin before application, decide whether any contra actions are needed to take place,
• Cleans, tone and moisturise the skin before application
• Be aware whether the client id wearing contact lenses when applying powder to the face and eyes especially 

My Partners Final Design Practice Improved

Matilda's Final Design Practice: Improved Design 

In our own time my partner and I practiced her final makeup design; she had made subtle changes to the positioning and amount of colour to the lower part of her face, and removed any eye shadow from the eyes to make the design fit better with the Elizabethan concept. I found most of the design easy to do, but I struggled with the symmetry of the black lines towards the bottom of her face. Looking in the mirror whilst doing this helped me a lot because it shows exactly where I went wrong. To make this easier for me, my partner and I discussed making a stencil for the lines to ensure the finished design is perfect and the symmetry is on point. The design took less then an hour to complete, this means there is more time for me to perfect thew look and ensure everything it as she wants it. I will spend the remaining time going over any lines and any white of the face which has become patchy or needs retouching. I am confident that I will be able to complete this design to her standards. 

For this design I have used

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Kryolan white super colour and Illamasqua white base mix for the base; face, ears and neck, foundation brush and kabuki brush
• Illamasqua translucent powder over the whole face, powder puff 
• Illamasqua white eye shadow on the lid and underneath the eye, small brush and blending brush  
• Illamasqua metallic palette silver for eye liner, underneath the eye, very thin brush 
• Kryolan white super colour to block out eye brows and eye lashes, eye brow brush and mascara brush 
• Kryolan black super colour to line the black section, thin brush 
• Illamasqua black powder on lower face and neck, blending brush and blending sponge    

Health and safety:

Before I started the application of makeup,I ensured all my brushes were clean and there was no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application I ensured I didn't cross contaminate the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' I assessed the clients skin and came to the conclusion she had normal skin with no contraindications.   

My Original Final Makeup Design, Practice

My Final Makeup Design 

This is my original makeup design for my final assessment, I wanted to keep the look Elizabethan by using a white base and using pink. The pink in my design also illustrates the bright, girlie and confident personality mixture of Lettice and the Housewives. I also wanted to use gold to symbolise royalty, wealth and status, I have used this under the eyes and on the eye brows. I want to make the eye brows a statement piece as the housewives use many products to create the perfect brow. I will change this look slightly; I like the colours I have chosen, but I will use a larger mix of shades to separate the block colour and spread it out across the face, I will also blend the colours out to fade into the white, and choose a brighter colour of pink and add more gold to the lips. 

For this design I want my partner to use:

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Illamasqua white base for the foundation, kabuki brush
• Illamasqua translucent powder, powder puff 
• Kaolin pink, orange and purple blend of colours for the cheeks, eye shadow brush 
• Illamasqua white powder for eye lid, blending eye shadow brush 
• Kiss Cosmetics Lady in red lipstick for the lips, thin brush
• Illamasqua gold for sides of lips, eye brows and under the eyes, thin brush, eyebrow brush   

Health and safety:

Before the application of makeup, it is important to ensure all the brushes are clean and there is no cross contamination in the products. Throughout the application ensure no cross contamination with the brushes or products by 'double dipping.' Assessed the clients skin and conclude whether actions need to be taken or if there are any contraindications. 

Final design planning and face charts

My Final design plan 

http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/lettice.htm, period makeups, Lettice Knollys, viewed 03.11.15, (digital image)

Lettice Knollys was all about fashion, glamour, beauty and seduction, this style and confidence reminded me of the women on a television show, 'Housewives of Orange Country' these women and powerful, beautiful and know it. I wanted to illustrate this into my final makeup design, so I have decided to use colours such as reds and pinks, to show beauty and seduction. I also want to include gold to symbolise wealth and power; keeping to the Elizabethan theme and the original makeup traits of Lettice, I will use a white base. To modernise this look and involve the glamour and passion of the personalities of Lettice and the housewives, I will be including false eye lashes, brighter pigments and gold eye brows, here are some of my ideas on face charts based on Lettice and the housewives. 

This face chart is my first one and my least favourite of the five; I attempted to create a gold and red mixture of colours to the lips, I used a brush for the application that was too thick and didn't smooth the colour onto the paper as I wanted. For the base I used Kryolan Supercolour white, the allowed the powders to smooth on the face nicely. I used a mixture of pink and red powders for the face and eyes to illustrate glamour and beauty.  

For this face chart I wanted to keep the look subtle, I have mixed Kryolan foundation with illamasqua white base to keep the base a pale colour, I then used white supercolour to create whit eyes, white mascara, eye brows and eye liner to cancel out any colour and keep the look very pale. I then used very red lipstick for the lips and a light pink blusher.   

For this look I used white supercolour thickly on the face, then used silver from my liquid metal illamasqua palette to illustrate even more the paleness of the makeup used in the Elizabethan era. I blocked out the eye brows and used white to over the eye lashes and to line the eyes. I used kiss cosmetics lady in red lipstick, for a splash of red colour. 

This is one of my favourite designs from my collection, it illustrates glamour with the long black eye lashes and sparkly gold, I have applied the lipstick to the centre of the lips to create the idea of a love heart shape without it being too defined and prominent. To keep the look Elizabethan I have used a variety of pinks and reds on the cheeks and eyes and I have used supercolour and illamasqua white base for the foundation. 

This look is a more developed design from my previous face chart, I have added more colour to the pink and red cheeks and lower eyes, I have added more gold products to the eye brows to keep them solid and defined. I have added sparkly gold to the corner of the lips and under the eyes. I have used larger lashes which I will illustrate by using large false lashes. This is my favourite look that I will practice with my partner.  

Elizabethan inspired makeup 5

Elizabethan inspired makeup 5 

This face chart is my least favourite, I have used a white over the eyes to represent white eye lashes, for this I will have to use a white mascara. I dislike this look because the face shape of the chart doesn't suit the style go makeup I have completed, to avoid this happening in my assessment I will have to mould the makeup to the person I am making up; measuring the face shape and working with the model. I have tried to keep the colours subtle and traditional to the Elizabethan era, but I used more pink in this face chart to keep it contemporary.

Elizabethan inspired makeup 4

Elizabethan inspired makeup 4 

For this look I have added gold to keep it contemporary and to represent the look of wealth and royalty. I want to keep some gold in my design to promote this symbol. I found it hard to blend the colours, especially the red, as for the base I used super colour white. Although I powdered the face after I applied the base, it was difficult to blend other powders on top, next time I will use aqua colour or illamasqua white base, I don't whether the paper has made it difficult to blend or the super colour, I will practice this on real skin.    

Elizabethan inspired face chart 3

Elizabeth inspired makeup 3

I wanted to keep this look angular, I blended the red to point towards the lips  and the eyes to sweep outwards. I wanted to keep the lips in the shape of a heart to represent the Elizabethan symbols of purity and loyalty to England. I added gold to the eyes on the lid, the colours strong, but I also used gold on the forehead, this didn't work as well, next time I will blend the colour using a brush, on this face chart I used a sponge which smudged the colour and made it blend with the white base causing the colour to fade and turn grey.  

Modern Elizabethan face chart 2

Elizabethan Inspired makeup 2

For this face chart I used red lipstick from Kryolan and enlarged the lips slightly, this is too keep the look contemporary. I also blended out the eye brows to keep to the Elizabethan theme. I admire the blending of the cheeks and the colour is a subtle red like the eyes, this look is one of my best, I may continue with this original idea and build on the colours to produce a strong finish, I want to add some gold into the design, I will keep practicing with my face charts to find the perfect contemporary Elizabethan design. 

Modern Elizabethan face chart 1

Elizabethan inspired makeup 

For this face chart I found using Aqua colour for the base made the texture of the face chart much easier to work with; it created a smooth base and made the application of the powders easier. I then used aqua colour on the eyes, this also worked well and the colour was strong. I used super colour gold on the eyes and lips, I like the gold as I have used it to represent wealth and royalty, something Elizabeth I wanted to show through her fashion and makeup. I have covered the eyebrows with aqua colour white, using this product worked best as the eyebrows were blocked out best.  

Face chart using complimentary colours

Face chart using complimentary colours 

This is my third face chart, for this I used complimentary colours; opposite in the colour wheel. I chose blue and orange as these are two of my favourite colours and compliment each other well. I am pleased with the finished look to my face chart, I am most pleased with the eyes, next tim I will use different products, a black or dark blue pen for the mascara as I used a cream based products for this and the brush was too big.  

   

Monochrome face chart

Monochrome face chart

This is my second face chart inspired by monochromatic colours; these are different variations of the same colour. I chose purple because this is a great colour that will match with many skin tones, from pale to very dark skin. I used a mixture of powders and creams to get this effect, the teams worked well because they are easily mouldable. I used my fingers as well as my makeup brushes to get the shades of purple to blend on the paper, I found it easier to use my fingers because the drawing f the face chart is quite small and even my smallest brushes proved to be too big. I also found it difficult to get each side of the face symmetrical, I found the right side of the face was easier to accomplish my desired look because I am right handed, I need to practice my symmetry. 

Monochrome face chart makeup practice

Monochrome makeup practice 

For this design I have used: 

• Illamasqua satin primer
• Illamasqua white base mixed with Kryolan white super colour for the base 
• Purple Kryolan powder for face and contour
• purple and black mix of super colour for eyelids and lips and eyebrows 
• Purple powder Kryolan for nose 

Pictures taken by myself of model Matida

This is my first design from my monochrome face charts; from previous learning I practiced using different white makeup for the base of the face. I found super colour mixed with the  Illamasqua white base created a smooth texture, it had the least amount of streaks. I used this mixture as the base for my design, once buffered with the Kabuki brush it created a smooth and sheer finish. I chose purple as my monochrome colour because I thought it went well with the skin tone of the model. I wanted to get the effect of a mask using the white base, so I kept the colour to the face shape, not on the neck, ears or too close to the jaw line, I also wanted to use a lot of colour on the face to bring life and minimise the amount of white. 

I was pleased with the outcome of my design, I liked mixing the colours to make lighter and darker shades of purple , the products I used were purple super colour, purple and pinker shades of powder. I used the super colour on her eyes and lips and to mark out the lines on her face; the cheek bones, either side of the nose and the forehead. I then used the powder to blend the colours and create shades in the face. Next time I will use a better mix of colours; combining more pinks and lighter purples to create a more textured finish. I was please with the dark colours; I mixed the super colours purple and black to create a depend dark shade, next time I will use a better variety of shades, going from light to dark without creating a sharp line between the two. I will also go over the outside of the face to remove any excess product, I wanted to keep the shape of the face so the white looks like a mask, I then blended the purple at the sides of the face; next time I will remove this to keep the mask shape.  

I found it hardest to shape the lips, I wanted to create a more defined love heart shape to the upper lip for a contemporary Elizabethan look, I found it difficult to keep a steady hand. Next time when practicing this design I will only make a heart shape with the inner part of the lips, this will emphasise the Elizabethan style. I will also use less super colour to define the face shape and rely mainly on powders to achieve a better blended look. Symmetry is difficult to perfect, especially when looking at the model in the mirror. Using the white to create a mask shape was difficult, especially at the top of her face because I wanted to make sure both sides of her face were even. Even though the eye brows from the people in the 16th century are not visible, I was please with the end look to the eyebrows of this model, I am unsure whether to use this eyebrow design in the finished look or whether to keep the look minimal.