Contagious and non contagious conditions: SKIN and HAIR.

Conditions that are contagious-

Skin:

Scabies:

Scabies is a highly contagious skin condition, and it is caused by a parasite called Sarcoptes Scabiei that burrow into the skin. They can only be passed on to another person through long close contact, e.g. sleeping in the same bed, or wearing the same clothes, or even holding hands. Scabies can be spread quite quickly because the infected person may not know they are infected until about three weeks, but then is known to be very itchy and can cause a rash or small spots. To cure the infection tablets and a cream must be transmitted and all clothes, bed linen and towels etc. must be washed. 

Picture form: www.notbullying.com 

Impetigo:

Impetigo is a contagious bacterial infection from a bacteria called Group A Streptococcus or ‘GAS’. This can be found on the skin or throat and some people have been known to only be carriers and show no illness but may be effective by a rash called impetigo. Impetigo can be spread by close contact with someone who is infected, or by touching something the infected person as touched or used e.g. towel, razor, bed linen or even a mobile phone. 

Symptoms of impetigo often begin after 3 days and are not painful but can be itchy. They look like small red spots usually on the face but can be anywhere on the body. sores can develop and grow, they then burst and leak a fluid that is highly contagious and can infect anyone who's some into contact, the open wounds then form a crusty layer, then start to heal. 

Picture from www.nationwidechildrens.org

Hair:

Head lice:

Head lice are very contagious and can be passed along to someone during close contact. They are caused buy a tiny bug known as a louse which lays eggs close to the scalp, they can be very hard to remove as they latch on using a saliva that clings to the hair follicles, these eggs then hatch and form new ones. To remove the lice from the hair, lice removal formulas and ‘nit combs’ are available.  

Picture from: www.thehairforce.co.uk 

Folliculitis: 

Folliculitis is caused by a bacteria called Staphylococcus aureus, and is spread by direct contact with someone suffering from this condition or scratching and causes the hair follicles to inflame. At first the infection looks like lots of little spots covering the scalp, or other places that hair grows. If left untreated they can quickly turn into crusty sores that are much harder to heal or eventually non healing.

Pictures from www.staph-infectious-pictures.com and www.genius.com   

Non Contagious Conditions 

Skin

Pityriasis versicolor

Pityriasis versicolor is a fungal disease that is caused by a yeast that is naturally in the skin, it can be ‘activated’ by over heating and sweating e.g. living in a hot county but also because of having a week immune system. This disease appears as a rash and forms when the yeast in the skin grows and becomes out of control. Because the yeast grows naturally in the skin it is not a contagious infection and is more likely to effect younger people; children and teens. 

If this occurs, to keep the yeast from growing out of control creams, shampoos or lotions can be bought to treat it. They are called tropical anti-fungal treatments.   

Pictures from www.nhsonline.com and www.patientinfor.com 

Acne

Acne is a non contagious bacterial infection that causes spots over the face neck and back. they can range from small whiteheads and blackheads to larger red spots that cause scarring long term. Washing the skin with a non fragrant sensitive soap and using a moisturiser will avoid irritation but wont prevent spots from appearing. Acne is most likely to occur in younger people due to the change in the hormone levels during puberty. It affects the grease level in the skin and around the hair follicles causing a blockage. When  applying makeup to skin infected with acne, it is important to use products suitable for sensitive skin to not cause irritation or more pore blockages.  

Picture from: www.wikinedia.com

Hair

Trichorrhexis Nodosa

This is a non contagious hair condition cause by certain genes, but also by things we do everyday e.g. blow drying, straightening, over brushing or perming and the use of too much chemicals.

If someone has this condition the hair may appear as if it is not broken or patchy, and different hair types are affected in different ways e.g. the picture below shows the hair breaking at the root before it has a chance to grow long, but caucasian hair splits at the ends, thinning the hair and making it look white. 

to avoid this happening, use a mental comb and lightly brush the hair, don't use any heat products or chemicals on the hair.

Images from www.perfectlocks.com and www.loning4length.com

Dandruff

Dandruff is caused from an over production of skin cells, and causes the skin to flake off. At first glance it can look like head lice, due to the small and many amounts of white dead skin in the hair. Areas affected by dandruff may look red and inflamed, be itchy and irritant. Although it cannot be fully cured, it can be treated with medicated shampoos and controlled.   

Image from www.patch.com/images

There are also many other conditions to be aware of when applying makeup to a client, although if something is noticed on the skin it is very important to stay polite and not offend the person you are making over. Sometimes makeup cannot be applied due to serious infections or painful sores, but in most cases the artist must continue and give all the brushes a very good clean in song alcohol brush cleaner and never ‘double dip’, this is to stop any case of infection being passed on.  Some other conditions are:

• contagious eye disorders: conjunctivitis 
• non contagious eye disorders: styes
• fungal infections: ringworm
• contagious skin disorders: cold sores, herpes, warts
• non contagious skin disorders: boils  

Contra-action:
A contra-action is when a reaction occurs either during the application of makeup or after the makeup has been applied. This reaction could be anything from red skin to an allergic reaction. If this occurs during application, it should be stopped immediately and cleaned off the, if it occurs after the application, the reaction should be noted for future reference and if serious advise the client to see their GP. 

Contra-indications:    
A contra-indication is something that the client may have that could stop the application of makeup, these may include; fever, infectious diseases, allergies to a certain product, conjunctivitis. It is important to find out if there is anything that could prevent the makeup treatment. It is important to find out in a way not to offend the client or make them feel uncomfortable about an issue they may not know they have.  

References

• NHS.choices.co.uk
• www.skinsight.co.uk
• www.hairboutique.com/tips
• www.medlineplus.com
• www.headandshoulders.co.uk/info
• www.rd.health/beauty.com
• www.GeeZone.com

Elizabeth 1998

Elizabeth 1998

This film, out in 1998, written by Michael Hirst and directed by Shekhar Kapur, is based upon the life and reign of Queen Elizabeth 1, although has been romanticised greatly. With a brutal beginning and harsh storyline throughout, the film gives the audience an insight to what the world was like during the 1550's and how death and murder occurred everyday caused by the people of the church and in power. 

Throughout the film you see the transformation of Elizabeth, how she was portrayed as a young free spirited being, natural and fresh faced. She was 25 and lived a peaceful life with her servant ladies. We see her dancing and playing in a field with her servants showing a close relationship with her lover 'Robert Dudley'. We get this impression from her by the way her face is lit up, and her hair falls down around her shoulders to portray her freedom. Her hair was simple, she didn't want to be noticed, her beliefs would have gotten her killed if she tried tied to promote them. Being the daughter of the King it is hard to go unnoticed, due to this she wore her hair down, simple, and dressed down, she didn't wear many jewels or wear extravagant makeup.

Once transformed she had to change to become a strong and fierce Queen, able to rule over her people and council; who were men and thought her incapable of keeping her thrown without a man by her side. Her face was stern and her eye brows plucked to almost nothing, it was also the fashion to pluck away at the hair line to give a larger forehead; this symbolised great beauty and intelligence. Shades of red hair became popular to look more attractive and fierce, like Elizabeth. Makeup used then was made from vinegar and white lead, various dies such as cochineal was used to redden the cheeks and lips. Her hair was neat with tight little curls and plats, pulled away from her face. The symbolic importance of this is to make the audience believe her transformation. She looked fierce and very much like the real Queen Elizabeth 1. 

Fully aware that everyone would now be looking at her, giving her attention, looking up to her and she would never be alone again; she needed to be perfect, she wore extravagant jewels and very bright colours to not only stand out but to amaze and show off her rich and powerful new life.   

I think there was some influence from the directors culture in the film, it was very romanticised and the costumes almost had an indian twist to them. Shekhar Kapur is known for his work in Hindi films and although has created a very accurate and historical film I believe the costumes portray a dark and indian style. 

Once Queen she was constantly encouraged and advised to marry, either the French or Spanish, to benefit themselves with money, power and allies. This is an important factor in her transformation; at first she is unsure and listens to the advice but swayed by her own inner strength to reign on her own and the love she has for Robert, she decides not to marry. This shows us she can be strong and think for herself without a large council of men telling her what to do. This portrayal of Elizabeth is an accurate one, from history I have found that Elizabeth had to learn to become Queen, building on it everyday, in the end she changed considerably and initiated the Golden age. 

Religion plays a huge part in this film, originally a Catholic ruled nation buy her sister. Once Queen, Elizabeth pushes her beliefs and changes the council to run in her favour; Protestant, making the two churches become one. Her transformation is much based upon religion, she desires to be like the virgin Mary. Throughout the film we see huge halls and rooms filed with statues of religious figures and high pillars like a church, Mary is positioned as one of the main statues; hair covered, white and flawless. Her inspiration for the white makeup and a porcelain finish comes from this statue of Mary, towards the end we see her crying at the feet of Mary looking up to her, one of her advisors explains no one can compare or be above the virgin Mary, she then changes her appearance and approaches her subjects.   

During the film her makeup and the makeup of all the women was very plain, it was realistic and showed the audience what it was like to live during those times without the range of products we have today. All the actresses looked like natural beauties; pale skin, small eye brows, and hair neatly tied back into rings of plats. The ending scene with Elizabeth, when she had truly become the Queen that was needed, we see her having her hair cut off and wearing a white gown with a very white made up face, she says; 'I have become a virgin, married to England' she transformed. She proved that after another 40 years of being the Queen, no man was needed to rule with her. After her reign England was one of the most powerful and rich countries of their time.

Pictures from www.kitsmatics.wordpress.com and www.journeysinclassicfilms.com
Information taken from watching Elizabeth 1

Reflection of induction week

Reflection of induction week 

Illamasqua work shop

23.09.2015

During the illamasqua workshop I learnt that in the fashion world; makeup can be used in every way thinkable, the idea is to create something that is striking and gives an impact quickly e.g. using lipstick on the eye lids to create a strong and bold look. I learnt that professional makeup isn't always only about creating fine lines and the 'perfect' definition. I found this very creative and it inspired me to think outside the box. It has taught me that makeup is not only used to enhance someones natural beauty, but to create something that will enhance a piece of clothing on the catwalk and make you think; 'wow'.

In fashion there is a lot of bold colour used, this was portrayed by using the lipstick. I found it very creative and interesting to use a range of products for different areas of the face; lipstick, glue on eyebrows to position them, and using the makeup palettes like a true artist, I liked this particularly because I am most interested in the artistic spectrum of makeup.      

Listening to the makeup artists from Illamasqua taught me that working with makeup in fashion is initially difficult to get into, but once working in that environment it is rewarding though stressful at times. The idea as a designer is to think of ideas in makeup that no one else have come up with or to think of something different and that will get noticed, although hard, as it is changing all the time. 

It has taught me to think more openly about the makeup industry; this will help me in the future to not only focus on a particular path but to branch out, e.g. freelance, work in the theatre, TV and film and also models.   

Kryolan workshop

24.09.2015

I found the Kryolan workshop very helpful and interesting, the talk was given very professionally and there was a lot of helpful information given, it taught me to never give up on finding my dream job as a makeup artist. To get where I want in life and succeed I have to train hard and always look for new things to create and do and show that I excel and stand out from the rest. It also taught me that work experience is key; even if starting at the bottom, which means working for nothing in time it will pay off. 

Listening to what 'Jemma' was saying made me think of the future and to stay dedicated. Always look for the best quality of makeup and try new products, this will help to gain a good understanding of makeup and also how to use each product to perfection, especially when working with clients who expect the best. It also taught me that communication is key; always ask the client if they are happy, find out what they like and ask what their makeup style is and enhance it (for wedding makeup and everyday clientele). 

Head in a bag

22.09.2015

This task was initially a bit daunting; the idea of having to go out into Southampton and take photos wearing the bags we made. But in the end became fun and a bit of a confidence boost. Creating the bags was enjoyable because it reminded me of my art classes in college; it revealed everyones creative ability and showed what we could come up with in a short space of time. I am interested in cutting and sticking and building up a creative and funny design which this initial task was all about. It got me and my class mates talking and independently we went out into the park to take our pictures. 

I liked the idea behind this task and was interested in the research behind it; what other artists had come up with and the short film made by previous students. I found creating the bags easy as I had some experience of this type of task, I also enjoyed going out with new friends to find places where we could take the pictures. I have learnt to be confident about what I create and to find new and exciting ways to show my work, this will help me in the future to create good photos that leave an impression on who will see them. 

Pictures: taken by me from Illamasqua, workshop, makeup done by Helen and Kryolan workshop, makeup done by Jemma. Models chosen in class,. 

Cosmetic recipes and their dangers

Elizabethan Cosmetics recipes

Perfume/cosmetics water recipe: 

• Borax 
• Powdered sugar
• Poppy seeds
• Fresh water 
• new laid eggs with their shells
• burnt alum 

This recipe is from 'Beauty and cosmetics 1550-1950, Sarah Jane Downing' This perfume recipe sounds disgusting, the smell would have been of egg and without anything to act as a preservative it would have gone off within a couple of days. There are many modern day perfumes that almost everyone uses, these are intended to smell nice and although act in the same way as this cosmetics water, only fresh water is found in modern perfumes today. I love waring Roberto Cavalli perfume, the smell is from pink peppercorn, orange blossom, toasted tonic bean, benzoin (resin obtained from an east asian tree) and Mirabelle plum, all these ingredients sound appealing compared to the Elizabethan cosmetic water. 

Creating a white complexion:

Many Elizabethan women would desire a white complexion, this was made by lead and white powder, added red for the cheeks and lips, this was then preserved by glazing egg whites over the face. If she were to go outside, a mask would have been worn to protect er face from the sun, it consisted of a cut oval shape with holes for the eyes and nose, and would be held by piece in the mouth. This reminds me of a hockey mask that would look a bit scary in modern times. 

Cosmetics were popular for ladies wanted a white complexion, Sir Hugh Platt wrote Delights for ladies in 1602, a household recipe book. A recipe for white skin consisted of:

• white tartar 
• camphire
• coperas
• whites of four eggs
• juice of two lemons
• oil of tartar
• plantan water
• white mercury
• biter almonds

All ingredients must be powdered and then mixed with oil and water and then boiled then strained, it must then be applied to the face and left over night, then taken off in the morning with bran and white wine. Book: The artificial face, a history of cosmetics, Fenja Gunn. 

This recipe and method sounds insane! The skin of any lady using this for a white complexion would be terribly scared and sore. I have found there are still some ways in which modern day people want to have pale skin, there are two recipes below that are used today and claim to make the skin paler without any harmful effects: 

• Gently run plain yogurt into the skin, leave for a few minutes and wash off, to this several times a day throughout the week. toptenhomeremidies.com
• make a paste of combining orange juice and powdered turmeric, apple to face and neck, leave on all night, wash off in the morning, do this daily. toptenhomeremidies.com

These recipes and methods of modern times sound like they should be ancient and from the Elizabethan era. There are similarities in the methods of both these recipes to the ones form the 16th century. 

Also from the book The artificial face, I have found a method of removing spots and freckles: 

'The sap that issueth out of a birch tree in great abundance, being opened in march and april, with a receiver of glass set under the boring thereof to receive the same doth perfume the same most excellently and machete the skin very clear.' "The artificial face'

I cannot take much from this statement as I don't know what each phrase means, all I can gather is the sap from birch trees during March and April collected and put on the face will remove spots and freckles. A modern day remedy for removing spots is 'Quinoderm cream' the ingredients of this consist of : 

• Benzoyl 
• peroxide potassium 
• hydroxyquinoline sulphate

None of these more technical ingredients appear in any Elizabethan times remedy's, but appear to b natural things easily found or bought. 

There are obvious dangers to the use of the cosmetics made by the people of Elizabethan times, cosmetics are for the use of improving the skins quality and appearance, but would have done the opposite for Elizabeth. The ingredients used were very harmful to the skin, for example, white led acted as a poison and made the skin wrinkled, crashed and hard. It would have been very harmful particularly for Elizabeth as she developed small pox, to cover her skin she would have applied a lot of this homemade makeup.  

Summer project; Some like it hot

Some Like It Hot!

1959

Some Like It Hot (1959) is one of the most hilarious films of its time. It is a clever combination of; a 1920's gangster film with period costumes, romance and comedy, deceptive identities, reversed sex roles and cross-dressing. One of the film's major themes is disguise and masquerade e.g., the drag costumes of the two male musicians; Joe's disguise as Josephine and Jerry as Daphne. 

After witnessing a gang massacre in Chicago and being chased by the mob, Jerry and Joe, 20s jazz musicians; played by Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis, dress up as women in order to get a few weeks of work in ‘Sweet Sues’ all-women’s dance band headed for Florida. They meet Sugar Kane, played by Marilyn Monroe, the band’s singer and ukulele player. Both men fall for her good looks and try to pursue her.

It is a black and white film, filled with non-stop action e.g., the murder and car chase towards the beginning, slapstick, and one-liners throughout, and more gangster gunshots at the end. It is a remake of an earlier Bob Hope film called ‘Not Tonight, Josephine!’ (1939) a line used in the remake.

When the comedy was released Orry-Kelly, the fashion designer for the film, designed costumes that helped to make the film iconic in terms of fashion. The costumes offended so many viewers, that it prompted a ban in Kansas and an ‘adult entertainment’ restriction in Memphis, Tennessee. This was because the film’s plot is of the two men cross-dressing, and ‘Sugar’ Marilyn Monroe, wears a dress that is the same colour as her skin, is sheer at the top and only just covers her assets with sparkly jewels, the back of the dress is completely bare and stops just at the small of her back, to put it simply it was very revealing. She wore this dress matched with a fur shawl in a raunchy scene with ‘Joe,’ and had the same dress in black which she wore whilst singing about giving up love. 

Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon were given clothes from the supply at Western Costume and ended up with costumes from Debbie Reynolds and Norma Shearer. The dresses were altered to fit the men and the 1920s setting of the film. The baggy dresses paired with hats acted as good disguises, but even cross-dressing for comedy was too distressing for some poeple. Male actors had worn dresses in movies before, but other actors didn’t seem to embrace it as much as Curtis and Lemmon did, and this resulted in a ban.

Top costume designer Orry-Kelly managed to dress Marilyn so well that audiences didn’t notice that she was pregnant, her make-up artist ‘Whitey’ also did an amazing job at disguising the fact that she was 10 years older than her character’s 24 years. In its review of the film, the New York Times said, “Monroe’s figure simply cannot be overlooked.” And especially in the scene where she wears an almost transparent dress whilst singing ‘I want to be loved by you.’  

Allan "Whitey" Snyder, born August 7, 1914 and died April 16, 1994, was an American Hollywood make-up artist and was the personal make-up artist of Marilyn Monroe. Agnes Flanagan and Alice Monte were the hair stylists for the film, and Emile LaVigne was the make-up artist for all the actors except Marilyn. 

I think the hair and make-up artists did well to mirror the 1920’s setting. For a film made in the 50’s they were still able to capture the 20’s style of hair and make-up for all the characters; pail faces, puckered and painted lips with dark mascara and eye shadow, short but wavy hair flattened on the sides of their faces, accessorised with hats and veils. Billy Wilder decided the film should be set in black and white, due to the displeasing look of Curtis and Lemmon dressed and made up as women. I think the silver screen also complimented the make-up of all the characters, especially Marilyn; it increases the pail look to their faces and adds to the dark make-up, such as eyes and lips.    

Marilyn Monroe hasn't aged into an icon, a citizen of the past, but still seems to be inventing herself as we watch her. Already a ‘fashionista’, following trends and fashion designers that weren’t established yet; she didn’t need any help from the film to become a fashion icon, much the other way around. She has the desired figure, and clothes always flatter and manage to accentuate her good looks. A quote from one of the fashion designers who have worked with her, William Travilla; “Marilyn has the most fantastically perfect figure in the world,” he told Screen Life in 1954. “No matter how you dress her, she looks sexy.” artsandcollectionsartical.com. 

I think ‘Some like it hot’ is an iconic film in terms of fashion and stye, because the makers have managed to recreate a 1920’s setting, and chosen the perfect make-up and costume designers to match. Orry-Kelly managed to capture the look of 20’s stylish women, and the actresses wore the dresses with the right attitude and confidence of these women, young and in a band, including ‘Josephine’ and ‘Daphne.’ Marilyn Monroe was perfect for the part of ‘Sugar,’ it was said that she could easily switch from Norma Jeane to Marilyn, and played a Marilyn type character for her role as Sugar. Some of the dresses, to really show the curves of the women, where made by tying a string around the top of the actresses legs and then sewing the frock on, this made each actress look more hourglass, especially Marilyn. It caused a ban and an adult entertainment restriction in american due to it’s daring and raunchy style of fashion acting and modern humour, this I think is enough to prove an icon. 

References: 

Picture of characters Sugar, Josephine and Daphne: explore.bfi.org

Information and facts: 

• artsandcollections.com/article/MarilynMonroe

• www-theguardian-com-film-movie.com

• www.imdb.com

• www.rottentomatoes.com

• www.nytimes.com 

• Book, ‘Fashion, the ultimate book on fashion and style’ by author DK

Summer project

Summer Project: If I could... 

This is a picture of my mood board I crated over the summer for my summer project. This mood board explains where id like to be, what id like to look like, who id like to work with and what id like to be doing in five years time. I was very pleased with my board; I think it is a good explanation of me and the things I aspire to be. 

I am very interested in big, bold colours, I'd like my hair to show that, I want to have long orange hair with a short fringe, I'd love to incorporate travel with makeup somehow; travelling with a film crew making up the actors. Travelling is a huge dream of mine, I want to see the world whilst working in my dream job. I love tattoos and body art; working in theatre would introduce me a whole new take on makeup, covering the body in makeup e.g. Wicked, or doing dramatic and extravagant makeup not he theatre actors.